(Or use a DMM Pivot belay device, which greatly simplifies the lowering process.)Īnd, if they REALLY can’t give you any slack, there is another way to do it with a redirected sling, check the video link below. And, be smart about it - if your second might have a chance to swing out into space, you should probably be belaying with some other method all together, like with a Munter hitch, which is super easy to lower on anytime. However, those two situations are so incredibly unlikely to happen, it's certainly safe to learn this as your primary lowering technique. ![]() Even so, I can already hear the peanut gallery out there, yelping “OMG, what if they’re unconscious! What if they fell on a traverse and are hanging out in space or on a 5.15 blank wall?” True, in those two scenarios this not going to work. In just about every climbing situation, this will be possible. Note: this method does require your follower to unweight the rope for a moment and give you a small bit of slack. Plus, it has a great name - the “LSD” or “Load Strand Direct” lower. Note that this does not require any seldom used, hard-to-remember rescue geek knots like the Munter Mule Overhand (MMO), nor any sudden unweighting of the belay device that might cause your second to wish they wore their brown pants that day. Here’s a Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) that's about the easiest method you’ll find to lower your second off of a plaquette. But they do have one major drawback - if you need to lower your second, it's generally not safe, easy, nor intuitive to do so.ĭoing this incorrectly has led to numerous accidents read about one of them here. Plaquette style belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso are great, allowing smooth rappels, to be rigged as an ascender, and to autolock when belaying your second.
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